Which Emulsion Is Best For Screen Printing?
When it comes to emulsion, there isn’t necessarily a single “best” option for everyone. What matters is finding the right emulsion for your job, your equipment, and your shop conditions. The sweet spot depends on what you print, the exposure system you use, and the environment you work in.
In this video, Chromaline’s Kevin Kauth, aka the @emulsionguru, teamed up with Ryonet to break down how to choose the correct stencil system for consistent, repeatable results with fewer headaches. Watch the video first, then use the guide below to help pick the right emulsion for your screen printing shop.
Choosing Emulsion: The Myth of “Best” vs. “Best Fit”
When looking for the “best” of anything, it ignores context. Emulsion is not a one-size-fits-all. Your ink system, exposure equipment, and environment are three variables that determine the best fit for YOU. Dial those in and you’ll get predictable exposure, durable stencils, and faster reclaim.
Here are our tips and suggestions for choosing an emulsion system that is the best fit for your specific shop.
1) Start With Your Ink System
Different inks demand different emulsions. Match the emulsion chemistry to the ink you push through it.
Water-Based & Discharge
- Works with: emulsions that have excellent water resistance.
- Pro tip: you must have strong water resistance or the stencil will soften and break down on press.
- Chromaline pick: Hydro-X Red (hybrid photopolymer) for durability and fast, LED-friendly exposure.
Plastisol
- Works with: almost any emulsion.
- Pro tip: if you print plastisol only, a non-water-resistant emulsion often reclaims faster, saving chemical and time.
- Chromaline pick: ChromaBlue or ChromaLime (pure photopolymers) for speed and crisp detail.
UV & Solvent
- Works with: a dual-cure or hybrid photopolymer rated for aggressive ink systems.
- Pro tip: consider dual-cure options when you need broader chemical resistance and exposure forgiveness.
- Chromaline pick: Magna/Cure UDC-ACE offers outstanding resistance to aggressive water & solvent inks.
Water-Based & Plastisol Combo Shop
- If you are a textile shop printing with both plastisol and water-based inks, CP Tex is a good option for your shop. With an enormous window of exposure latitude, CP Tex provides textile shops a single emulsion solution when printing with both plastisol and water-based inks.
2) Match Your Exposure Equipment
Light source determines how quickly and completely your emulsion hardens. It's important to consider your light source or exposure equipment when choosing your emulsion.
- Fluorescent tubes: relatively weak light. Choose fast-exposing pure photopolymers.
Good fits: ChromaBlue or ChromaLime. - LED & LTS (Laser-to-Screen): similar output ranges. Use hybrid photopolymers optimized for LED wavelengths.
Good fit: Hydro-X Red. - Metal halide (single point): powerful and forgiving. Most emulsions expose well. Good fit: CP Tex.
- Sun exposure: go fast. Good fit: ChromaBlue.
3) Control Your Environment
Your darkroom is a living variable. Keep it in the sweet spot for reliable coating, exposure, and drying.
- Temperature: 60–80 °F. Too hot can clump or partially gel emulsion; too cold thickens coating and slows drying.
- Humidity: 30–40% RH. High humidity lengthens exposure and weakens durability. If you have a high humidity shop, we recommend using ChromaLime to avoid sticky screens.
- Lighting: Yellow safe-light only. If your safe-light is questionable, choose a slower-exposing dual-cure/diazo emulsion, like CP Tex, for more forgiveness.
Quick Picks: Choose By Scenario
| Scenario | Best Fit | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| All-plastisol shop, speedy reclaim | ChromaBlue (pure photopolymer) | Fast exposure, crisp detail, easy reclaim since it isn’t water-resistant |
| Mixed shop with water-based/discharge on LED | Hydro-X Red (hybrid photopolymer) | Water resistance plus LED-matched sensitivity for durable stencils |
| Fluorescent tube unit needs speed | ChromaBlue or ChromaLime | Fast exposure under weak light sources |
| New to darkroom or imperfect safe-light | CP Tex (diazo) | Slower, more forgiving exposure latitude |
| UV/solvent graphics | Magna/Cure UDC-ACE (dual cure) | Extra chemical resistance and durability |
Pro Tips When Making Screens for Screen Printing
- Run a step test using an exposure calculator whenever you change mesh, coating, film density, bulb, or humidity.
- Dry screens fully before exposure. Tacky emulsion leads to under-hardened edges and premature breakdown.
- Think about reclaim early. If you never print water-based, a non-water-resistant emulsion reduces time and chemistry at the sink.
- Document your settings. Keep a simple log for mesh, coats, exposure time, and results.
VIDEO GALLERY: We have videos that cover all aspects of the screen making process. Head to the Chromaline Video Gallery to see all our different playlists.
Screen Printing Emulsion FAQ
Is there one emulsion that does everything?
Not perfectly. Hybrids like Hydro-X Red cover a lot of ground, especially in LED shops that mix ink systems, but “do-everything” always involves trade-offs.
Why does my water-based stencil break down on press?
You likely used an emulsion without adequate water resistance, or your exposure was low and the stencil wasn’t fully crosslinked.
My fluorescent unit feels slow. What helps most?
Use a fast pure photopolymer, coat consistently, and confirm exposure with a step wedge. Consider upgrading to LED when possible. Head to our Exposure page to learn more about exposing your screens.
Contact Chromaline for Emulsion Questions
To summarize, there is no universal “best” emulsion. There is a best match for your ink, equipment, and environment. Choose wisely and you’ll get clean highlights, open shadows, predictable prints, and faster turnarounds. If you still have questions about which emulsion to choose for your screen printing shop, please contact Chromaline for help.